While we were still in Potosi, Rhonda and Caity took a tour of an active silver & zinc mine while I rested, suffering from a bout of sciatica which has been getting worse since I had an awkward moment with my large backpack getting on a city bus and trying to navigate the cash turnstile. I wish I could have done the tour with them but they were equally glad to get out alive. Millions of people have died working in the mines since 1585, and many more will continue to perish from the toxic chemicals and poor working conditions. The miners work for $7 / day and live to an average age of 48, but despite the risk they continue working generation after generation to hopefully make a better life for their families. It is quite tragic and any developed country would close the mines, let alone run tours. Caity made it down to the 3rd level (of 6), while Rhonda decided to turn back rather than descend to level 2 down a ladder and already in very tight quarters. While the guide offered to take the remainder of Caity's group all the way down the mine they had seen enough and the tiny shafts, heat, lack of oxygen and dust in the air were too much to overcome. She was not feeling well for the next 24 hours and has promised to never, ever complain about any job again.
From Potosi we headed south to the Salar de Uyuni, home to the world's largest salt flats (over 12,000 square km's) where we signed up for a 3D/2N tour riding in an old Toyota 4x4 with 3 other German lads. The salt flats went on forever and a good pair of sunglasses was necessary to block out the brightness........it was similar to being on a frozen lake covered in snow with no clouds in the sky. Fish Island emerged in the middle of the salt flats and a walking tour around the island allowed everyone to stretch their legs after being in the cramped quarters of the 4x4 for hours. It was near this spot that everyone takes their crazy pictures, and we took our share led by Caity, our choreographer. Our tour extended beyond the salt flats and we were able to observe lagoons (flamingo's), steam geysers (strong sulpher odors), several volcano's and a thermal pool (with an outdoor change room) but the highlight was definitely the Salar. We stayed overnight in very basic rooms, with no heat, electricity or water except for the 2 hours after arrival where they humoured us with some solar powered energy. We played cards and dice games by candlelight. We rented sleeping bags to go along with the 3 heavy blankets they provided and wore several layers to bed to overcome the cold at night.
Arriving back in Uyuni at the end of the tour, we took an overnight bus north to La Paz where we are now, awaiting Rachel's arrival in a few days. On the morning of our arrival we were warned by the bus assistant that the bus would not be able to drop us off at the terminal because of a parade going on that day...........and what a parade! It started shortly after checking into our hostel and we were able to watch the whole thing from the terrace balcony and bar on the top floor (it is also a microbrewery and everyone gets a free beer every night).........well we didn't actually see all of it........since the parade was in honour of Bolivia's 200th anniversary of independence they went all out. The parade started at 8 am but didn't reach the spot in front of our hostel until 9 am. The final group came through at 11 pm (13 hours later) so we managed to do a few things in between although it was difficult to walk anywhere in the city because of the volume of people out to see the parade and the many road closures. The colours were brilliant and the outfits (traditional dress and costumes) were amazing but by the end of the evening we could mimic the beat of their national anthem which was played non-stop by all of the groups coming through. The parade ended at a very large park where more people gathered and continued the party late into the night with fireworks going off all over the city. Caity was out after midnight with a young group from the hostel and upon her return was impressed with all the volunteers out in the wee hours of the morning dismantling all the bleachers and cleaning up the streets. When we awoke and looked out the windows everything was back to normal and you wouldn't have known anything happened the day before. Today there were free concerts and other acitivities happening around the city. They sure are proud of their country and their heritage.
I'm going to take it easy for the next few days, going for daily massage sessions, so that I can recover and get myself in shape for our 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. Unfortunately, that means Caity will have to represent our family on the Death Road bicycle trip (all day, all downhill) which I had been looking forward to doing wih her tomorrow.
All for now...............
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