mike & rhonda's latest adventure: Lights, Camera, Action..........OK, whenever you are ready

The stage was set. We were on a full day game drive at Kenya's world renowned Masai Mara National Park and on our way to the Mara River to watch the wildebeest migration, now heading south across the river and into Tanzania'a Serenghetti N.P. Along the way we passed many herds, numbering in the hundreds and heading towards the many crossing spots. The drama was building. When we reached the river there was a large wildebeest herd accompanied by many zebras. The hippos and crocodiles were visible in the water. While our anticipation built, our guide cautioned us that the crossing could take 2 minutes, 2 hours or 2 days. It seems that the boldest and bravest wildebeests lead the migration and since we were approaching the end of the season, it was the weakest and most timid creatures that were behind the rest. The 'leaders' made several approaches but each time they turned away, obviously aprehensive about what was ahead. We suggested that one of the ladies take on a leadership role and show them the way (while we manned the cameras) but there were no takers. After 2 hours of patiently waiting, our guide suggested we move on because the herd wasn't likely going to cross until the trailing herds caught up and then the sheer numbers (thousands) would force the front of the group into the water in order to avoid a stampede. Oh well.

The day was hardly a disappointment though. We saw large groupings (20+) of giraffes, elephants, hippos and cape buffalo, all within 10 metres of our 4X4 which had the roof removed for unobstructed views. We also came across a pride of lions (2 moms and 8 playful cubs), a leopard resting in a tree and some cheetahs relaxing in the shade. The usual assortment of gazelles, impalas, baboons, jackals and many species of birds were also in plain view. Many carcasses were noticed as well, some old and some new with the vultures cleaning up what the larger beasts had left behind. On the other hand we found many of the animals intermingled and grazing together. Mother Nature at it's finest.

Today we did a sunrise game drive where we saw a pack of hyenas working on some leftovers. Shortly after that we came across a pride of lions feeding on a fresh kill, a topi (large antelope). While the cubs were finishing up, two of the moms spotted a small group of wildebeests and began stalking them. One of them sneaked around to the front forcing them back into the path of the other but a lunge at one of the smaller wildebeests missed its mark and the herd escaped unscathed. It was fascinating to watch the whole ordeal. We just arrived back at camp following a sunset game drive. The highlights included a large group of hippos in the river, a wildebeest that had been critically injured and will be a target this evening, and a group of hyenas preparing for their night moves.

And by the way, Rhonda loves camping again. Following our chilly tenting experience for 7 nights on Mt. Kilimanjaro, we were in permanent tents at the Ilkeliani Rest Camp just outside the park gates. Our private tent is over 100 square metres in size, built on a wooden platform with a very high ceiling, a king size bed, a private bathroom (shower, sink and flush toilet) and a deck with lounge chairs overlooking a river. It is luxury camping at it's best.

Prior to arriving at the Masai Mara we spent the first two days of our tour at Lake Elementiata and Lake Nakuru NP where we saw an abundance of wildlife (many of the above but not in the same numbers) including both white and black rhinos which completes our viewing of the Big 5 (black rhino, lion, leopard, cape buffalo, elephant). We have also seen lots of goats, sheep and cattle all being herded right through many of the towns we passed along the way.

Tomorrow morning we will have one final game drive in the Masai Mara and then be driven back to Nairobi where we are catching a flight to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The next day we leave on our final 'serious' tour which will take us through Botswana (Okavango Delta, Chobe River and a Rhino Sanctuary) with a final stop in Johannesburg. The total trip is 9 days so it will be over a week before the next update.