mike & rhonda's latest adventure: Travelling Never Gets Old

One of the joys of travelling to new places all the time is not only the different cultures and attractions that we set out to embrace, but also the totally unexpected things that we experience along the way. Over the past week we have been confronted with quite a few 'surprises'.

Our week started off in Tiruchirapalli (Trichy). When we were travelling there by train, my dear wife was 'boob slapped' by a 30-something Indian lady who then ran away. It was intentional and only startled her (no pain) but we have no idea what that was all about. Perhaps some friends or family with some previous experience can provide some insight. Trichy's two major attractions were the Sri Ranganathaswammy Temple (49 shrines over a very large area) and the Rock Fort Temple (6th century, 400+ rock-cut steps up to the top, great views) were both impressive. Unfortunately the first temple was on it's 12 year renovation cycle, so the 7 large gopurams (gateway towers) with their many colourful sculpted figures were all covered up, hiding most of the lovely architecture. However, I did receive a blessing from the friendly temple elephant (trunk pat on the head), so all is forgiven.

Then we travelled to Madurai, a larger city with over one million inhabitants (not including the stray dogs and wandering cows and goats). The Meenakshi Amman Temple was our main target there, so we found a hotel close to there, and it did not disappoint. The temple is a 6 hectare complex with 12 tall gopurams, each of them with a vast array of gods, goddesses, demons and heroes, each colourfully painted. There were apparently 1511 of them on the South Gopuram, which we took their word for, rather than try to count them all. We also had a fabulous lunch, at a place recommended by our hotel manager. It was not very crowded when we arrived but within 20 minutes the restaurant was packed with people standing beside most tables waiting to secure a spot. Perhaps word had quickly spread that we were dining there. It turned out to be a hands only eating experience, one we had expected but not encountered yet. Fortunately, our meal choices did not involve rice this time, which saved us some embarrassment although the locals were probably still entertained with our ineptitude at eating with only our right hand (since your left hand is for sanitary purposes only!). Early the next morning when a tuk tuk cold not be found for our one kilometre trip to the bus station, a tiny elderly man wanted to take us in his rickshaw (bicycle powered). With less than 30 minutes before our bus was departing we accepted his offer but it quickly became apparent that he was no match for the task at hand.......2 people and 2 backpacks......so rather than be responsible for an impending heart attack, I jumped off and helped him by pushing the rickshaw from behind, which sped up our pace. Many locals smiled along the way and two of them even offered to take me on their vehicles (tuk tuk and a motorcycle) at no charge but I just smiled back and we persevered. Our bicycle man shook my hand at the end and smiled. It was a good start to the day.

Our next stop was in Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) which is located at the southern tip of India. It is one of the few places in the world where three oceans come together...the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean. There were a couple of more "firsts" here. Our morning A/C bus from Madurai (3.5 hours) was never crowded and by the time we arrived in Nagercoil, we were the only two remaining passengers. The driver and ticket manager decided to pull into their nearby office and called a bus company 'friend' who then drove us the rest of the way (20 km's) in his car. No cost for us, and it made good business sense, so we were fine with the changeover. After checking into our hotel we visited the Kumari Amman Temple where we were "bindi'd" (red dot on the forehead) and I was asked to take off my shirt, as all men are, for this particular temple (no such rule for the ladies which didn't seem right to me). Later that day we took a ferry to a tiny island, 400 metres offshore, to visit the Vivekananda Rock Memorial (shrine to a Hindu apostle who meditated there 125 years ago) and the Thiruvalluvar Statue (133 feet high, depicting his famous 133 chapter poetry book), on the rock island beside it. We lined up with at least one thousand people for one hour to catch one of the three 100 passenger ferries, only to find out at the last minute that there was an empty 'fast track' line where for $3 (instead of .75 cents) you could go to the front of the line.....oh well.

We have now turned the corner and will be heading north along the south-west coast of India. Our first stop could be heaven on earth, or at least heaven in India. We are staying in a cabin at Havelia Island Resort near Poovar. It is only accessible by boat with a short trip through the backwaters. There are no vehicles on the island, and very few people other than the ones catering to the tourists that are staying here. We have a beautiful pool right outside our cabin deck and we are spending three days here to just relax and enjoy the solitude.....it is our kind of ashram.

Trichy - Elephant blessing outside of the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple.

Inside one of the largest temples in India - one of the 49 shrines dedicated to Vishnu (the Preserver and Restorer).

The Rock Fort Temple - looking down at just a few of the 400+ steps to the bottom.

Madurai - one of the 12 tall gopurams at the Meenakshi Amman Temple. It was difficult (for us) to see the difference between the heroes and the demons.

Kanyakumari (Cape Comorin) - I'm sure I could have swam out there faster then it took to line-up for the ferry out to the Vivekananda Rock Memorial (left) and the Thiruvalluvar Statue (right).