Two Great Stops Along the Way

We enjoyed our time in Bariloche. The Alaska Hostel was a happening place, lots of people coming and going, and for an Australian (Melbourne) couple we met, their stay lasted longer than planned awaiting a package from home that had been delayed in transit, but couldn’t be left behind. They left home in our summer and started their journey in Canada on bicycles (and camping) in the Yukon and working their way south to Argentina with a few bus rides added in along the way. They really enjoyed Canada but found it the most expensive country on their journey. We shared lots of travel stories while in the common area of the hostel.

One of our excursions included a bus trip to Cerro Catedral, 10 km away, the largest ski area in South America but still small in comparison to our larger areas (only 50 runs with surprisingly 40 lifts but many of them older, 2 seater chairs). The town overflows in July and August with powder hounds but the village resembled more of a ghost town when we were there. Another day we hiked 15 km’s of the Circuito Chico. Through lovely forests, up and down many hills for great views of surrounding lakes and the Andes Range. For good measure I added on another 5 km’s searching for a store that could ‘top up’ our electronic bus card for future use (Rhonda was clever enough to head directly back to the hostel). Our final activity was to head out on to the water for a boat trip in the Lake Region to Bosque de Arrayanes (forest filled with reddish-brown coloured trees) and Isla Victoria (a large island where we did a short hike).

We then took a 2.5 hour bus ride to El Bolson where we are currently residing. It is a smaller, hippie-like town and our accommodation for 4 nights was in a Yurt (a nomadic Mongolian style tiny home) in an eco-friendly place aptly named Earthship Patgonia. It turned into a lesson in sustainable living. Less than a year old, the property consists of one housing unit (3 bedrooms, 2 washrooms and a sitting area), 3 yurts, an outdoor shower, extra toilet and kitchen area. The staff slept in tents (not sure how that will work for them in the winter). We had two on-site dinners where all of the food came from the gardens on the property. Water is collected from the rooftop and recycled via their own septic system to support the gardens. The building walls were mostly made from mud with recycled bottles, cans and tires inside the walls to help with temperature control (cooling and heating). It was quite an eye opener and led to a pleasant stay. Later we found out that that Alberta has its own Earthship in Lethbridge.

El Bolson was also a great town to spend time in. Their Artisan Market is held 3 times a week and takes over the main park in the town centre. Vendors can only sell crafts that they make themselves so all items seem unique. There are food stalls as well with great food and craft beer, along with musicians and buskers. We made a repeat visit to sit in the shade (30C daytime highs) and enjoy the happiness around us. We did several 10-15 km hikes from the warm valley part way up the mountains where it was cooler and offered great views. Another day we went to Lago Puelo and refreshed ourselves in the lake.

Today we took the local bus to a small community north of the town where we will spend the next two days. There is a waterfall hike (with a swimming hole at the base) near here which we will do tomorrow. The hostal ended up being overbooked so they have put us into a lovely cabin at the back of the property that is owned by a neighbour. Not sure if they gave it to us (vs. others) because we look more responsible than the younger generation staying here, or if they are trying to hide the old people. Either way it worked out very well for us J

While hiking the Circuito Chico loop just outside Bariloche, we were afforded this view from the summit of Cerro LLao Llao.

This caution sign was posted near the site of the picture above. It was either a warning about the drop-off from the cliff, or advising one to be careful about the people you hike with........it certainly looks to me like a "push" was involved.

The Arrayane trees in the forest we walked through (Bosque de Arrayanes) had more reddish color in them than this picture portrays.

The sole building (so far) at Earthship Patagonia in El Bolson. The coloured wine bottles in the mud walls allowed light to penetrate into the enclosed space, and together with old tires and cans kept the space cool in the hot weather (and was supposed to have the opposite effect in winter).

Inside our Yurt which was quite spacious for a tent-like structure.

A view of Earthship Patagonia from a nearby hill that I climbed. The outdoor kitchen (partially shown) is on the far right. Just about every other spot on the property was consumed by their garden. Once a week they provided free tours for the locals to show them how to do something similar. Their hydro bill was a paltry amount so there was a lot of interest.

A small section of the Artisan Market in El Bolson. Too soon for us to start adding weight to our backpacks but it was a very laid back selling environment so it was easy to do some browsing.

Our visit to Lago Puelo the primary beach destination for the locals. In spite of the small, round rocks on shore and in the water (common theme for the Patagonian area so far) people flocked to the area. We chose to retreat to the softer grass area following our dip.

The view (Lago Puelo and the Andes Range) from the summit of a mountain I climbed to check out a cliff side rock formation that resembled a face (Cabeza del Indio), and to find a geocache which according to my GPS was 15 metres beyond the cliff edge and likely hidden at the bottom.

We booked a small room with a shared bathroom at the El Pueblito Hostal for two nights and due to overbooking we were given the option to have sole use of a neighbour owned cabin for the same price. Not a difficult choice to make.