" I can't change the direction of the wind, but I can adjust my sails to reach my destination" (Jimmy Dean)
With the weather throwing us another curveball, we made yet one more change to our planned driving route. A one night stop beside the Russian River turned into a 4 night stop when a cold front and rain moved into the U.S. NW, including northern California. The weather remained nice, low 20's, where we were so it was an easy decision. It also allowed us to play a well designed golf course amongst the redwoods that was a treat. Another day was spent on a coastal visit to Jenner where we walked along the harbour area and enjoyed some clam chowder. When the weather improved we headed further north to spend a full day in the excellent Humboldt Redwoods State Park. We drove the 31 mile Avenue of the Giants with multiple stops to walk some of the many trails within the large park. It was a magnificent day walking amongst the majestic giants. Perhaps we have found the Fountain of Youth.....with the 1500-2500 year old trees making us feel like kids again. We discovered the massive redwoods are very thirsty creatures. A single redwood tree requires almost 1900 litres (500 gallons) per day, facilitated in the non rainy season by the coastal fog (absorbed through their leaves). It is apparent we are not drinking enough water if we wish to replicate their growth and longevity!
The following day we drove to Grants Pass, Oregon, an oasis surrounded by mountains. Mid-20's temperature allowed us to think we were back in southern California. We enjoyed dinner at the lovely Taprock Grill restaurant on the banks of the Rogue River where we had a nice view. Then it was on to Salem in the heart of the Willamette Valley wine region, known primarily for their Pinot Noir. A visit to the spacious and busy Willamette Valley Vineyard provided us with confirmation that the valley had earned their reputation. We were surprised to find alternative farming of fescue and hazelnuts (99% of U.S. production) going on in the area. From Salem we drove a bit further north along the backroads to Portland, arriving on schedule for pre-booked Stephen Kellogg concert in the 1883 preserved Old Church Concert Hall. SK is an old favourite of ours whom we first discovered when he opened up for John Prine, another favourite no longer with us. It was another wonderful perfomance, enhanced with many funny stories explaining the roots of his personalized songwriting talent.
With cold and rain moving back into Portland and the U.S. northeast we contemplated changing our plans once again. We even considered heading home early but after checking the weather we realized it was much colder back home. One of the warmest and driest spots in Washington was hunted down and we settled on Kennewick where the sun was starting to reappear with daily highs of 10-12C.....making the best of being dealt a bad hand. The weather in Kennewick didn't turn out to be as dry or warm as the forecasters promised, so we decided to head further north to one of the warmest places in Canada, Osoyoos, at the south end of the Okanagan Valley. Before arriving we made a one night stop in Oroville, a few miles south of the border, to consume some of our suddenly excess alcohol. It also allowed us to walk 6 km along the well marked Similkameen Trail which follows the Similkameen River. We planned to walk a bit further along the trail but found it closed just before the Enlow Dam which is undergoing some much needed work. It seems the dam no longer produces any energy but it does do an excellent job of preventing the salmon from moving upstream. Hopefully they can fis both issues before too long, which would also allow the scenic hiking trail to be reopened to it's full length.
We are now back in Canada, and yet another wine region, making it the 5th such experience on this 2 month trip, when only Paso Robles was included in the original plan. When weather throws you lemons, drink wine! We settled in Oliver, BC, just north of Osoyoos. The weather was still cool but nice enough to golf twice, visit a favourite winery in Keremeos (Clos du Soleil), and visit with friends who started their own vineyard 5 years ago and are ready to open up this year. As soon as the snow melts back home, we will call an end to this journey and start planning the next one. Life is good.
While walking trails in Humboldt Redwoods State park we came across the enormous Founders Tree (in the background). It is taller than a football field and still growing. |
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