Slow Travel is Catching On

 We are now on the French island of Corsica, south of France and west of Italy, in the Mediterranean. We planned 3 weeks of travel around this small island (180 x 80 km's) allowing for our long-standing Slow Travel ritual. We started off in the capital city of Bastia, up in the NE corner of the island. We spent all of first day driving counter clockwise around the Cap Corse peninsula (40 km length, 15 km width), along the twisting, narrow coastal road. It is an iconic drive with brilliant scenic views on our right, with sheer drop offs on that side down to the sea. While we made many brief stops along the way, we walked into Erbalunga on the east side to check out their seaside 16th century Genoese tower ruins, and then again on the west side at Port de Centuri for lunch beside the small fishing port. Another day we walked around Bastia's old town and harbour area. The Citadel was imposing with views down to the harbour area. We had a nice seaside lunch watching the promenade traffic go by on another sunny, low 20's C day.

Following our short stay in Bastia we headed SW across the island to Ajaccio to greet our Swiss daughter who was joining us for 4 days. We settled in Porticcio across the bay from Ajaccio with easy ferry access. one day we drove south to the Isolella peninsula where the weather-rounded rocks were in curious formations and the Genoese tower stood proudly at the top of a small hill on guard. Another day we took the ferry across the bay to walk around the old town of Ajaccio, visiting the Napoleon House (birthplace), Citadel (reused in WWII) and the Cathedral. On our final day we drove out to view the Iles de Sanguinaires, a volcanic archipelago. It was an easy 1.5 km walk out to the point lookout (said the only one of three with two good legs). The next day we exchanged hugs with our daughter at the airport, but it will be a short term separation as we will finish our European trip in her Basel home.

From the airport we drove up the coast to the Gulf of Porto, where we settled for 2 nights in the town of Piana (5K pop.). Our primary reason for a stop here was to take a boat cruise out from nearby Porto to see the spectacular Calanques de Piana and the myriad of weather formed rock formations and crevices did not disappoint. We were also hoping to see the Scandola Nature Reserve from the water's edge but that part of the boat tour was scaled back in non-tourist season. Before heading further north the next day, we did an inland and back drive thru the scenic Spelunca Gorge to the village of Evisa. The narrow, winding road had spectacular views, not counting the mountain goats and small pigs that were also on the road at times. It had a speed limit of 80 km/hr which I'm not sure anyone could achieve, other than Tom Cruise in a Mission Impossible movie, as there was a risk around every bend. I haven't even mentioned yet all the Tour de France wannabes who seem to love all these mountainside twisting roads who form another potential hazard. When we are done here it actually might feel good to drive on those flat, pot-holed Saskatchewan roads!

We made our way to the north coast of Corsica and settled in Ile Rousse for 5 nights. While we had a lovely apartment with a large balcony overlooking the Mediterranean, our stay got off to a rough start trying to communicate with the remote VRBO property management team. It took us way too long to gain entrance and then found out the Wifi and cable TV would not work. An agent was sent out from another town to fix the issues a day and a half later but in the meantime it took it's toll on my cell phone data plan. Remote management did not work well in our case. Our first foray was to check out the neighbouring towns of Algajola (15th century castle), Lumio (built on a mountainside with great sea views) and our own Ile Rousse (lovely promenade and a great restaurant for lunch). The next day we drove to Calvi in the NW corner of the island. With it's massive Citadel protecting the old town within it's walls, it was a treat to walk around especially for the views. We had an excellent lunch at a nice restaurant (Le Nautalic) watching the seafront promenade traffic walk along on a warm sunny day. On our final full day in Ile Rouse we drove inland for a loop tour of 10 mountain villages, each with their own interesting make-up but all with fabulous views from up high. With very little activity going on, one wondered if it was the time of year (November), or a slowly dying small village with younger generation seeking out the pleasures of a bigger world. The one thing that could be counted on, as we have found in all mountain villages, was a group of 4-6 older male locals having a drink by a roadside establishment and likely trying to solve world hunger.

Tomorrow we will leave the north coast behind us and drive 3 hours to the SE corner of Corsica, the sandy beach haven, where we will make our final Corsica stop in the 15K pop.,seaside town of Porto Vecchio. Maybe there will be one more Mediterranean swim before we leave this lovely island.

Our drive along the Cap Corse peninsula, north of Bastia, Corsica. There were plenty of Genoese towers along the coast, built during the 15th century to stem pirate attacks. The drive provided picturesque views around every corner.

South of our Porticcio base on the west coast we came across the Isolella peninsula and it's weather-formed boulders. A few clouds ruined our planned sunset pictures.

 

The port of Ajaccio with the Citadel in the background. The 20 minute ferry across the bay from Porticcio was less stressful than having to drive into the old town and find parking. It is hard to imagine what it would be like during the prime tourist season.

Our walk back from the mainland tip of the Iles de Sanguinaires peninsula. We were going to walk to the top of the hill where an ancient Genoese tower stood but unfortunately the path was under restoration.

The mountainside town of Piana that we used for our base after leaving the Porticcio / Ajaccio area. We stayed in an apartment higher up the mountain from where this picture was taken.

A roadside view of the Calanques de Piana on our way to the small seaside village of Porto. A few hours later we were on a zodiac (8 passengers) viewing the Calanques (weather formed crevices into cliff faces) from the sea.

Calanques de Piana view from our zodiac. There were numerous sea caves where our small boat was able to enter and cliffside rock arches that we were able to pass under. The natural coves were used by pirates, et al for protection from weather and enemies.

A roadside shot of the Spelunca Gorge inland from Porto. The road from there to Evisa was incredibly scenic.....and dangerous if the driver still had his foot on the gas while admiring the views.

Calvi was the highlight of our stay on the north coast of Corsica, with the Citadel visible down by the sea. This picture was taken at the sacred Notre-Dame de la Serra chapel with it's great views. At the chapel visitors left hundreds of painted rocks in remembrance of lost ones.

The Cathedral inside the Calvi Citadel. There were many homes inside the walled Citadel as well, that used to protect the owners from unwanted intruders, who in these days are tourists who are too lazy to walk up to the Citadel.

The Calvi waterfront where we enjoyed a delicious lunch outdoors on another beautiful day. Our seafood meals (tuna, mussels, dorado and more) have all been fresh, tasty and well presented, making us wonder why we don't live closer to the coast at home.......oh yeah, because it is not this warm in mid-November!

The mountainside village of Belgodere inland from Ile Rousse where we stayed. As we drove through these old villages it was apparent that time had caught up with them and the narrow roads dictated lots of one-way traffic to get to the centre of town, and prayers on the '2-way' roads that there was no oncoming traffic.