Back in the Slow Lane

We have rented a nice VW Polo sedan and our enjoying our time back on our own schedule. We are currently staying in a remote guest house just outside of Hazyview which is one hour east of Kruger National Park. The surrounding area, which has many hills and lovely views, is made up of large plantations (bananas, avocados, macadamias). There is also a vibrant timber industry in the region and they seem to be doing a fine job of reforestation.

During the past two days we have been roaming around the southern part of the scenic Panarama Route, visiting caves, waterfalls and small towns at a leisurely pace. It has been very relaxing. Today we will leave our haven and drive into Kruger NP where we will be for the next week. Our first stop will be at a rest camp where we are signed up for a 3 day wilderness hike, staying overnight in huts, and being guided by a park ranger who will be carrying a rifle to protect us against any wildlife that disapproves of our presence. Hopefully that won't be necessary :-)

Our next update will come after we leave the park in a week's time. Sorry (kind of) that we missed the first snowfall back home. Cheers.



Haus Kopatsch - our guest house near Hazyview

Sudwala Caves - only narrow section

Lone Creek Falls - 68 metre drop

Nobody Understands Me Anymore

Pocahontas tells me to get over it, but that's another issue and a story for another day :-)
My latest predicament is that after learning almost 100 words of Swahili and having a fun time with the East African locals surprising them with my new vocabulary, we arrived in Botswana to confused looks. No one seemed to appreciate my greetings anymore........Habari Ya Asubui (good morning) or Mi Mi Na Itwa Mike........apparently here and in South Africa (our next destination) I would need to restrict my talk to English (how boring), which is used frequently, or start working on several different tribal variations of Zulu.

We started off this chapter in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Since it is just before the wet season is going to begin, the water volume was not as dramatic as it could have been but it was still impressive. The Falls are the highest of the major waterfalls (Iguacu is the widest and Niagara Falls has the most volume) so they are all equally impressive. It was also a good thing that we got to see them from the Zimbabwe side rather than Zambia since the best views at this time of year (and probably always) were directly in front of us as we spent 2 hours walking along the rim to see the vast number of picture opportunities. At the same time we found out that our tour, which ended up in Johannesburg, South Africa, had only 3 registered guests (the 2 of us plus a nice Australian), was still on with the services of a guide, a cook and a driver, so we had lots of personal attention and space on our 15 person vehicle. Our hosts told us the trip would be like a vacation for them since they had just come off a 15 person tour keeping them very busy all the way. It was a nice surprise.

Next up was a border crossing into Botswana, a country we came to appreciate for the direction it is heading (focus on the environment, infrastructure and agriculture). Our first stop was in Chobe National Park where we cruised the Chobe River and had good views of hippos, elephants, cape buffalos and crocodiles. Our campsite was near the river but our guide suggested we swim in the pool rather than approaching the river bank. We took his advice in the 35C temps that have become the norm in this country.

After that we travelled to the Okavango Delta where we spent several days in a remote campsite on an island in the middle of the 16,000 square km. wetland. We were delivered there via a mokoro (dug-out canoe) and a local 'poler' along a maze of channels on a quiet glide through reeds and day lilies (night lilies during the evening)....and one particular spot where the hippos liked to hang out. We had to carefully navigate around their playpen. Once our local delta guides (from nearby villages) had set up our mini campsite and dug a temporary toilet for us, we had morning and evening walks and mokoro cruises to different spots to view elephants, hippos, antelope and zebras. Although we didn't see a lion, we were awakened one morning at 5:30 am by the roar of a nearby male which prompted the guides to quickly get out of their tents and re-start the campfire which would apparently discourage the lion from getting any closer to us........or so they told us. The afternoons were quite warm so we had lots of time to relax around our campsite and cool off in a small swimming hole not far from our tent. On the final night the polers from our group and a nearby larger group joined together to entertain us with lots of singing, dancing and laughter around a campfire.

From there we had a long drive to the Khamo Rhino Sanctuary arriving in the mid-afternoon. After our camp was set up we went on a game drive with a local guide who knew all the hot spots to hit. Before long we were upon a Black Rhino beside a small pond that allowed a close-up view from a hidden bird blind. After that we saw numerous White Rhino's including a mom and a one year old calf that would have still been at least 3 times my body weight. With lots of other wildlife in view (giraffes, antelopes, wildebeests, wart hogs) a thunderstorm embraced us and we got drenched even under cover of the 4x4 as the torrential rain came in sideways. I retrieved our rain ponchos from my backpack a bit too late from the sudden storm but it still prevented the chill that our Australian friend received. He hurried us back to our camp just in time for a beautiful rainbow, and we changed into dry clothes and sat around a warm campfire.

The next day we drove across the border into South Africa and settled into a B&B in Soweto, a suburb of Johannesburg that is actually larger than the city itself with an approximate population of 4 million people.......no one really knows for sure. This was where the 'black' people were banished to in the mid-1900's when the white people in Joburg became concerned with their growing population and impact on 'their' community. Today we enjoyed a wonderful 4 hour bicycle tour of Soweto. We saw the slums and nicer areas, the former homes of Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela, and went to the memorial for the 600 high school children who were shot and killed in 1976 when they started demonstrating about the imbalance between the education system for white and black children. It was an insightful experience yet wonderful to see how the Soweto people have tried to forget the past and move forward. We were warmly greeted by all we saw on our cycle trip, especially the young children who were excited to give us high/low fives as we passed by.

We have now completed our major tours. While we have had some tremendous experiences along the way, we are also pleased to be back on our own schedule, moving along as we please. We have rented a car and tomorrow we will start heading towards Kruger National Park for some more wildlife adventures. Salakhi.

Victoria Falls - many closer pictures but none with a misty rainbow



Chobe River sunset



Chobe River hippos - mom and her calf

Okavango Delta - our washroom for 3 days

Okavango Delta - Tomelo and Botelho, polers with our camp gear

Polers song and dance on our last night in the Delta

Black Rhino - smaller head and rounded ears (vs, White Rhino), but one of the Big 5

Soweto shops - live chickens for $7

Lots of happy kids in Soweto, eager to greet us and pose for pictures

Victoria Falls - near the bridge to Zambia - and one of the few views they would have had










 

Lights, Camera, Action..........OK, whenever you are ready

The stage was set. We were on a full day game drive at Kenya's world renowned Masai Mara National Park and on our way to the Mara River to watch the wildebeest migration, now heading south across the river and into Tanzania'a Serenghetti N.P.  Along the way we passed many herds, numbering in the hundreds and heading towards the many crossing spots. The drama was building. When we reached the river there was a large wildebeest herd accompanied by many zebras. The hippos and crocodiles were visible in the water. While our anticipation built, our guide cautioned us that the crossing could take 2 minutes, 2 hours or 2 days. It seems that the boldest and bravest wildebeests lead the migration and since we were approaching the end of the season, it was the weakest and most timid creatures that were behind the rest. The 'leaders' made several approaches but each time they turned away, obviously aprehensive about what was ahead. We suggested that one of the ladies take on a leadership role and show them the way (while we manned the cameras) but there were no takers. After 2 hours of patiently waiting, our guide suggested we move on because the herd wasn't likely going to cross until the trailing herds caught up and then the sheer numbers (thousands) would force the front of the group into the water in order to avoid a stampede. Oh well.

The day was hardly a disappointment though. We saw large groupings (20+) of giraffes, elephants, hippos and cape buffalo, all within 10 metres of our 4X4 which had the roof removed for unobstructed views. We also came across a pride of lions (2 moms and 8 playful cubs), a leopard resting in a tree and some cheetahs relaxing in the shade. The usual assortment of gazelles, impalas, baboons, jackals and many species of birds were also in plain view. Many carcasses were noticed as well, some old and some new with the vultures cleaning up what the larger beasts had left behind. On the other hand we found many of the animals intermingled and grazing together. Mother Nature at it's finest.

Today we did a sunrise game drive where we saw a pack of hyenas working on some leftovers. Shortly after that we came across a pride of lions feeding on a fresh kill, a topi (large antelope). While the cubs were finishing up, two of the moms spotted a small group of wildebeests and began stalking them. One of them sneaked around to the front forcing them back into the path of the other but a lunge at one of the smaller wildebeests missed its mark and the herd escaped unscathed. It was fascinating to watch the whole ordeal.  We just arrived back at camp following a sunset game drive. The highlights included a large group of hippos in the river, a wildebeest that had been critically injured and will be a target this evening, and a group of hyenas preparing for their night moves.

And by the way, Rhonda loves camping again. Following our chilly tenting experience for 7 nights on Mt. Kilimanjaro, we were in permanent tents at the Ilkeliani Rest Camp just outside the park gates. Our private tent is over 100 square metres in size, built on a wooden platform with a very high ceiling, a king size bed, a private bathroom (shower, sink and flush toilet) and a deck with lounge chairs overlooking a river. It is luxury camping at it's best.

Prior to arriving at the Masai Mara we spent the first two days of our tour at Lake Elementiata and Lake Nakuru NP where we saw an abundance of wildlife (many of the above but not in the same numbers) including both white and black rhinos which completes our viewing of the Big 5 (black rhino, lion, leopard, cape buffalo, elephant). We have also seen lots of goats, sheep and cattle all being herded right through many of the towns we passed along the way.

Tomorrow morning we will have one final game drive in the Masai Mara and then be driven back to Nairobi where we are catching a flight to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The next day we leave on our final 'serious' tour which will take us through Botswana (Okavango Delta, Chobe River and a Rhino Sanctuary) with a final stop in Johannesburg. The total trip is 9 days so it will be over a week before the next update.

Cape Buffalo - a member of the Big 5

Mama with her calves

Long neck society

Hippos sun bathing by the Mara River

Wildebeests (gnus) in search of a Leader

Mama and her cubs after dinner

Cheetah cooling off

Roughing it in our "tent" (full enclosed bathroom behind the zipper)

We Made It --- Almost

We chose the Lemosho Route to attack Mount Kilimanjaro because we felt it gave us the best chance to get to the summit. The trek required 8 days of hiking on the mountain, the longest route to the top allowing our bodies to acclimatize better with the thin air at high altitude. Here is a daily breakdown of this challenging journey. I will use "feet" for the altitude references since it sounds more impressive than "metres" :-)
Day 1 - we checked into the Moivaro Coffee Plantation & Lodge in Arusha where we had an evening orientation session and met the other members of our group. There were 7 of us in total with the other 5 people all from the UK.......a couple from Scotland and three individuals from England. Everyone ranged in age from 40 - 63 so there were no spring chickens in our posse but everyone had trained at home for the climb. We bonded quickly and enjoyed each other's company.
Day 2 - a minibus picked us up at the lodge in the morning and we drove to Londorossi Gate, the starting point for the Lemosho Trail. After registering for the hike we met the rest of our entourage. In addition to our Head Guide, Wilfred (who was excellent), there were 3 assistant guides, a cook and 22 porters for a total of 27 support people......almost a 4:1 ratio which was surprising to us but when we saw all the backpacks, camping equipment and food that was required we understood the need for so many porters. The trail started at 5,300 feet above sea level (Calgary is just over 3,000 feet) and that afternoon we hiked for 4 hours through the Lemosho Forest to the Mt. Mkubwa campsite at 9,750 feet. It was hot during the day (shorts and a t-shirt) but it was cold overnight in our "private" tent, requiring two layers even though we had rented down-filled sleeping bags. "Pole, Pole" (slow, slow in Swahili) became our mantra as we walked at a pace we were not familiar with but the guides were slowing us down to conserve both our energy and our oxygen for the days ahead, and it really helped us get as far as we did.
Day 3 - a 6 am wake-up call with tea and hot chocolate (milo) delivered to our tent, followed by breakfast in a dining tent, and that became the norm for the rest of the week. That day we only gained 2,000 feet in elevation but we crossed two valleys and it took us 7 hours to complete that segment.  The final ascent to Shira Ridge was taxing for a long day on the trail. The porters remained behind when we left camp in the morning to pack up all of our gear but within an hour they were zipping by us carrying up to 20 kg's on their shoulders or head along with their own backpacks. They would always arrive at the next camp well before us and had our tents set up with our big packs already in the tents. They were amazing and do this for less than $15 a day but it is considered a good job to have in Tanzania. In the middle of the night when I went outside to use the toilet tent, I discovered frost on our 'home' which also became the norm and from then on I was sleeping with 3 layers on top. 7 pm became our regular bedtime as we tried to refresh our bodies and crawl into our cozy sleeping bags.
Day 4 - we hiked up to Shira Cathedral (a large rock formation) and then on to Shira Hut at 12,700 feet where we spent the night. During the climb we walked through the clouds and a light mist but the reward was our best view of Kili so far.
Day 5 - today we hiked up to the Lava Tower at 15,200 feet which is higher than any of our Canadian Rockies peaks. Rocks and dirt with very little vegetation at this point. From there we descended to Barranco Hut through a lovely canyon, spending the night at 12,700 feet. It was a good test to see how we handled the higher elevation ("hike high, sleep low"). It was the highest we had ever been. Rhonda had previously experienced dizziness at 14,000 feet in South America so this was a good sign that the "slow climb" was effective. By this point I am now wearing 3 layers throughout most of the day.
Day 6 - a challenging day that started with a steep hike / scramble up the Barranco Wall that took us 2 hours to navigate. We then crossed two valleys and finished with another steep climb to Karanga Camp at 13,200 feet. Some members of our group were starting to experience mild headaches or nausea but we were both doing fine so far although our legs were letting us know that we were overusing them. It was a nice sunny day with great views of Kili again and when we arrived at our camp by mid-afternoon it was warm enough in our tent to have a quick nap wearing only my hiking pants. Later that night however I was sleeping with my winter hat on and my usual 3 layers.
Day 7 - a short hiking day following the tough one yesterday but a steep climb, allowing us to arrive at Barafu Hut (15,200 feet) by noon where we had an afternoon nap followed by an early dinner and bed by 6 pm. The extra rest was necessary to re-energize our bodies because we were now poised for the final assault which was going to start at midnight, a 7 hour steady uphill climb using our headlamps and an elevation gain of 4,200 feet with the plan to arrive there at sunrise. The whole group was hanging in there and we liked our chances to all reach the summit together.
Day 8 - Departing camp at midnight in total darkness we could not see the steep climb in front of us but our legs were letting us know it was happening. The only thing we could see were the headlamps of hikers ahead of us on the mountain and the brilliant star show in the sky but it was difficult at times to know which was which. 3 hours into the climb Rhonda was starting to experience both leg fatigue and dizziness, and knowing that there was still 4 hours of climbing ahead of her, she made the smart decision to swallow her pride and call it quits. She had made it to 16,500 feet and hiked steadily for 7 days so it was still quite an accomplishment. One of our 4 guides escorted her back to our camp and I continued on just like we had previously agreed if either one of us was to falter.  3 hours later our group reached Stella Point (19,000 feet) at 5:45 am just before sunrise. We were quite excited to see the sign because we had reached the top of a ridge many times before only to discover that after a short level spot there was another ridge ahead and in the darkness it was a nice surprise. We had a short rest and knowing that we were only an hour away from the summit with a more gradual grade, it seemed to re-energize everyone. The sunrise happened shortly after and we could now see our final destination so we were all smiles. An hour later we arrived at Uhuru Peak (19,500 feet), the highest peak in Africa and one of the world's 7 summits, where we shared hugs and took our celebratory pictures. It was a magical moment realizing what we had accomplished. On our return trip to camp, which only took two and a half hours (vs. 7) we saw many people who should have given up the fight but were continuing on with the assistance of a guide (holding them up) and looking like zombies. It was a foolish thing for them to do and not something our tour company would have allowed. After a one hour rest in our tent, where I re-connected with Rhonda who was no longer experiencing dizziness at the lower altitude, we hiked 3 more hours downhill to Millenium Camp (12,500 feet) for an early bedtime on our final night in a tent. At dinner our group discussed the amount we wanted to tip our support group and we all agreed to give more money than was suggested before our trip started. The porters sang songs for us after dinner and when we announced the amount of the tips for them they were very pleased and shook our hands. Rhonda and I gave some of our warm clothes that we wouldn't need again on this trip to the porters (Stanley & Vincent) that carried our larger bags all week and prepared our tent. They were very grateful to have 'newer' attire.
Day 9 - today we hiked for 5 hours going downhill to reach our finish line at Mweka Gate, an elevation drop of 7,100 feet. We had a quick lunch and then boarded a minibus for the 2 hour drive back to Arusha and the Lodge where it all began. The first thing we did was bundle most of our clothes for the laundry service (everything we had worn was dusty) and then rushed into the shower.....our first one in 8 days, probably the longest stretch we have ever gone in our lives. We then relaxed with the rest of the group at the bar followed by dinner and wine. And then had a wonderful sleep in a nice comfortable, warm bed.
Day 10 - we woke up today really feeling our legs and walking around like 90 year olds. We parted ways with our wonderful group and headed off to the airport for a return flight to Nairobi.

Climbing Kili was an incredible experience. Although Rhonda didn't make it to the top she still hiked more than 65 km's of the 72 km trail and I was very proud of her making it as far as she did. It might have been a better idea to do it before we hit our 60's but we still outlasted many younger hikers who succumbed to the mountain.

In the morning we start our next adventure.........a 6 day safari to the Masai Mara where the wildebeest migration is underway. During that time we will spend 3 nights in a tent but these will be permanent 'luxury' tents and the temperatures will remain in the 20's so it will be quite different than our Kili experience. Our next update will follow that trip.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Our team - Frank, Paul, Elliot, Ruth, Rhonda & Clare

View of Kili on day 2 - only 5 days away!

Our Dining Room

Scrambling up the Barranco Wall

Day 5 and still smiling

Bedside service in the mornings

One of several glaciers near the peak - it is more than 100 metres away and used to reach the peak

A proud moment - don't worry, I haven't gained weight, just wearing 6 layers at -10C with a cold wind

Wilfred & Rhonda at the finish line

Our African Adventure Begins

Jambo (Hello)

We arrived safely in Nairobi yesterday night following two 8 hour flights (via Amsterdam). It was our first experience with KLM and it was a good one on large 300 & 400 passenger planes. The Nairobi airport, which lost it's International Terminal in August to a fire in August, also did a wonderful job in their makeshift spot in the Domestic Terminal. They put us on a bus after exiting the plane, then went through the VISA purchase line, picked up our backpacks from the carousel and made it through Customs, all within 45 minutes which we thought was remarkable. Once we arrived at our downtown hotel we immediately went to bed (9:30 pm) and slept until 10 am this morning...... guess we shouldn't have watched so many movies on the plane (and perhaps the 9 hour time zone differential had something to do with that as well).

Today we took it very easy with a walk around the Nairobi city centre, and Uhuru & Central Parks where the locals were relaxing in the shade of the trees in the large downtown parks on a 25C+ day. We are heavily outnumbered.......99 coloured people for every Caucasian......but the people we have met seem very friendly and always smiling which is a relief to see only a week after the horrible terrorist attack at a shopping mall.

Tomorrow morning we board a bus for a 6 hour ride to Arusha in Tanzania which is the launch point for our Mount Kilimanjaro hike starting the next day. Our next update won't come until we get down from the mountain so hopefully we won't be de-railed by altitude sickness (19,500 feet) and we will have some wonderful memories to share.

Our 747-400 vessel into Africa

Uhuru Park in Nairboi