Buen Camino

I made it.........2 weeks without being attached to the internet! I did receive occasional RBC updates (Rhonda's Broadcasting Service) for news, weather and sports but I kept my hands off of her Kindle while my laptop was safely stored in Madrid along with some other non-essential items while we walked the Camino de Santiago. During our 7 days on the Camino (extra days before hand in Leon and Lugo, and more time in Santiago at the end) there was enough weight in my backpack......2 sleeping bags, a second set of clothes for each of us, toiletries, towels, and a few more items......that I didn't want it to become a burden since we walked almost 20 km's a day during 6 days (115 km's total). As it was, the weight was similar to my golf bag which I was used to carrying most days during the summer. We could have used a transfer service like many other pilgrims (as we were all referred to, or peregrinos in Spanish) on the trail, but in doing so you need to commit to a stopover point further ahead and we preferred the old-fashioned pilgrim journey and the flexibility to stop whenever we wanted which turned out to be a good decision. We had nice weather for our first two days on the trail but then the rain started and continued every day until we finally departed Santiago, 10 days later. We ended up walking 23 and 25 km's on our first two days, and then only 16-18 km's a day after that, starting later, finishing earlier, or taking longer breaks when the rain was persistent. At the albergues (hostels) where most people stayed overnight, we always seemed to be the driest of the bunch and didn't have to worry about putting on damp clothes in the morning.

Our Camino experience was a wonderful one despite the cool (10-16C), inclement weather. It was 'spiritual' in a way but I would describe it as 'peaceful' for us. There was lots of uninterrupted time walking through the lovely countryside to think about life in general, how fortunate we are, and what matters most to us. We met strangers from all over the world who became friends for several days since you would often meet them again further along the Camino, as everyone moved along at their own pace. There was no animosity to be found anywhere, everyone was very friendly and wishing each other a "buen camino" with every passing.  The Camino is a great way to become 'happy' if that is not the space you are in.

Some of the highlights along the way included:
- our first few days in Leon and Lugo before the trek. Both were beautiful medieval cities with ancient Roman walls surrounding the old town where we spent our time admiring the architecture and walking the cobble stone streets.
- Sarria, where we started our Camino walk (as many people do), and the first pilgrim we met (William, Netherlands) had actually walked with our good friend John Dowd earlier on the trail. Quite a coincidence.
- meeting up with John a few days later in Melide (as planned) and spending a day together. John actually started his journey in Le Puy, France at the beginning of September, and was walking a total of 1500 km's to Santiago, an amazing accomplishment. He had arrived in Sarria ahead of us but took a bus to Santiago to meet his son, Bryan, and friend Mitch, before taking the bus back to Sarria and restarting his trek. That allowed us to move ahead on the trail and they caught up to us a few days later, walking at a faster pace. We had a good chance to catch up with one another during our time together.....a fun and tasty meal (octopus specialty restaurant) and spending the night in the same albergue room that had 14 beds. We walked the first 5 km's together the next day before we let them continue on in the rain since they had a further destination in mind and we chose to dry off in a café.
- the albergues along the way were a pleasant surprise. We somehow managed to find places that were clean and quite acceptable for the 10 Euro p.p. fee ($15) and devoid of any loud snorers that were on the trail (the only complaint we heard from some pilgrims).
- the Pilgrim Menu, served throughout the Camino at most restaurants, and many albergues. For 8-10 Euros, you received a 3 course meal (appetizer, main, dessert, with 4-5 choices for each course) along with bread and a half bottle (or litre) of local wine. It was a very good deal.
- how well the Camino was marked. It would have been very difficult to lose track of the trail. Every turn was well marked with a either a blue and yellow scallop shell sign or a yellow arrow on a wall or the paved road. When passing through a city, a bronze scallop shell was displayed in the concrete sidewalk. I suppose with over 200,000 people walking the Camino each year, they have had time to perfect the markings since pilgrims started doing this trek back in the 9th century.
- arriving in Santiago de Compostela and seeing the magnificent Cathedral, meaning our journey was complete. We went to the Pilgrim's Office and received our Compostela (over 100 km's walked, town and village stamps in your Pilgrim Passport for proof), and then headed to our private room for a well deserved rest.

We spent 5 days in Santiago, enjoying the lovely, pedestrian-friendly old town, and bumping into other pilgrims that we had met along the way. We toured the Cathedral and knelt before the casket of St. James, one of the original apostles and the reason the pilgrimage to Santiago started 1200's years ago. We also attended the Pilgrim's Mass, where the botafumeria (large incense burner) is raised and lowered by 6 strong men while swinging back and forth and almost reaching the domed ceiling 25-30 metres overhead. It was amazing to watch in the packed Cathedral. On another day we rented a car and drove out to Cape Finisterre (End of the Earth, or so they once believed) where we walked to Kilometre Zero of the Camino at the Atlantic Ocean. Some pilgrim's leave their hiking boots behind when they arrive and some still burn their worn and dirty clothes at a special shrine. Our return drive took us along the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) where the beautiful but rugged coastline has taken its toll on many sea vessels. We also stopped into the Igrexa de San Francisco another day to pick up our 2nd Compostela. It was the 800th anniversary of St. Francis of Assisi's pilgrimage to Santiago, and on every 100th year anniversary the church awards a special Compostela to the pilgrims reaching Santiago.

Last night we arrived in Valencia, via Madrid to pick up our extra backpack which had been stored at the train station. Our first impression has been very positive and we look forward to a few more days here, especially with a sunny, 22-23C forecast in our future. I will provide more details in my next report.

Buenas noches..........Miguel

Leon - Cathedral de Santa Maria. Over 1800 square metres of stained glass windows.

The first day on the Camino de Santiago trail. The sun was shining!

Our Melide aubergue. Ready to head out into the light rain with John, Bryan (left) and Mitch (Australia), and a peregrino photo bomber.

Our posse on the trail. The boys hiking boots were still a little damp when we left that morning.

A common countryside view when walking along the Camino Frances.

A trail marker left and maintained by a local villager.

Reaching our final destination. We wore good raincoats but our often worn ponchos from the Dollar Store provided even more protection, especially for the backpacks.

A view of the huge Cathedral from our 3rd floor room in Santiago, a 10 minute walk away. Unfortunately for our picture gallery, the two main towers were undergoing renovations, so the external view did not match the wonderful framed photograph pictures we had been teased with along the way.

The botafumeria swinging back and forth at the end of the Pilgrim's Mass. We have a good video of the action which we can share later.