A Birthday to Remember

I may run out of superlatives describing our Antarctica expedition…..it was that good. As an added blessing we set foot on the White Continent for the first time on my birthday, which was a surprise since we were not supposed to reach land until the next day. Here is a day by day summary of our latest adventure.

Day 1 – we boarded the MS Expedition at 4 pm and after checking into our cabin and unpacking our backpacks, the passengers were all given the compulsory safety presentation in the Lounge. We left port as soon as that session was completed with a warning to expect rough seas as we entered the Drake Passage (from the Beagle Channel) later that night. It was indeed a tough start as the swells reached 8-9 metres (30 feet).

Day 2 – today was not much better and the Drake takes two full days to cross so it was a day everyone was hoping would pass quickly. Many of the 130 passengers remained in their rooms all day feeling the effects. Several doses of gravol helped us survive. At our briefing during the day the expedition leader (Jonathan) showed us radar images from the previous night where a severe storm had engulfed the area. Credit to our Captain for getting us out quickly and changing course to stay just ahead of the storm which still had an effect on us. Another ship departing after us never made it out of the Beagle Channel which cost them a full day in Antarctica. During the day several informative talks were held including sessions on penguins, photography (in bright light), as well as a talk on zodiac procedures (our transfer to the mainland). All well done by different staff members who knew their stuff well. We were pleased with the quality and variation of the dining menu which will keep us sufficiently suffonsified for the next 10 days.

Day 3 – it was a much calmer day and we were given the wonderful news that due to the storm winds pushing us and shortening our travel time, we would be reaching the South Shetland Islands shortly after lunch and that we would be able to take zodiac trips to Penguin Island. Once there we were greeted by a large colony of chinstrap penguins (named for the thin white line that runs from ear to ear across their throat) along with fur seals, and we hiked up to a dormant volcano which offered tremendous 360 degree views of the island and surrounding area. Just before dinner the Captain (Sergey Nesterov) held a cocktail party in the lounge where champagne and appetizers were served. We then took a bottle of pre-purchased champagne to the dining room to celebrate our Antarctic conquest. After our main meal (we chose salmon over lamb), the serving staff presented me with a chocolate birthday cake, “Happy Birthday”, and a bottle of prosecco which somehow all got consumed with the help of another couple from the UK that we were dining with. Rhonda had not set this up……they must have taken the information from our registration forms. We were off to a flying start!

Day 4 – this morning we awoke at Half Moon Island on an overcast day with strong winds. Our shore trip revealed more chinstraps, giant petrels (a menace for the penguin chicks) and fur seals. On our return to the ship our zodiac detoured along the shore and around some icebergs. After the lunch the captain masterfully steered the ship in high winds and snow through Neptunes Bellows, a narrow opening into Whalers Bay on Deception Island. Unfortunately the 50 knot winds were too strong for the ship and it’s dragging anchor, postponing another zodiac landing and the polar plunge, so we continued on our southward journey instead.

Day 5 – we woke up to a glorious morning, total blue sky and 1C. We were now in Neko Harbour on the Antarctic Peninsula where whaling boats used to anchor in poor weather. On shore we were introduced to Gentoo penguins, who have a white triangular patch above their eyes, and crabeater seals (who don’t eat crabs). Our zodiac also took us around a huge iceberg measuring 300 metres in length and 30 metres high. A short hike up a hill offered some great views of the floating icebergs on a sunny day. In the afternoon we moved on to Cuverville Island where there was a large colony of gentoos (5,000 pairs) with their one month old chicks who were starting to shed their down feathers. On our trip back to the ship our pilot steered us to a large leopard seal, relaxing on an ice flow. That evening we had a BBQ dinner on the bow deck and the 60 passengers who signed up for camping in sub-zero temperatures set out for Damoy Point (near Port Lockroy) to set up their tents and shiver all night long.

Day 6 – after collecting the campers in the morning our ship resumed its southern journey on an overcast day. Before long we entered the very narrow and scenic Lemaire Channel (11 km’s long). On the ship’s previous journey the channel was frozen near the exit and they had to turn back. This time our captain was successful but it still took a lot of iceberg and ice flow dodging. Most of the passengers were out on deck watching the excitement and we spotted a Minke whale along the way. We used the sauna for the first time to take the chill out of our bodies from being outside for so long. In the afternoon we arrived at Petermann Island for another zodiac trip. On shore we spotted Gentoo and Adelie (white ring around the eye) penguins, crabeater, elephant and weddell seals, and many skua’s (sea birds) who seemed to be feasting on the young chicks (nature’s way). A short hike took us to the other side of the island for some wonderful views of many large icebergs.

Day 7 – our regular wake-up call came at 6:30 am and before breakfast everyone was dressed and on the deck for the crossing of the Antarctic Circle. With mimosas in hand, the ship’s bell rang and we all took pictures of the imaginary line at 66.33 degrees south on Valentine’s Day morning. We then travelled south through Crystal Sound to Detaille Island. Later that morning, on the island we received a tour of a 1950’s abandoned survey station that has been left untouched with some of their supplies, books, clothing and tools still where they left them over 50 years ago. Our zodiac cruise there and back to the ship went through a minefield of icebergs and ice flows……it was iceberg heaven with some incredible shapes and sights including large arches. In the afternoon we headed further south through what seemed like more ice than water. The captain apparently knew what he was doing, as we made our way down to the “fast” ice…….where the ice shelf is permanently attached to the land. The zodiacs took us to the fast ice and we walked on it for over a kilometre with seals lazing around closer to the water’s edge. It was reminiscent of being on the salt flats where it is white all the way to the horizon and you can have fun with your camera.

Day 8 – we started our journey back north overnight, ensuring the ship would not get stuck in the frozen waters. We dropped anchor at the Yalour Islands where on shore we came across Antarctic terns and colonies of cute adelie penguins. Some of the adults were molting and the young chicks were chasing their moms around the snow hoping to get fed. It was quite entertaining to watch. When we were finished walking around one of the islands we took a zodiac cruise amongst the islands and saw some incredibly shaped icebergs, many of the smaller ones hosting crabeater seals. After lunch we made a double landing, first at Pleaneau Island and then Port Charcot. Both offered snow hikes to viewpoints of the surrounding ice flows and colonies of Gentoo penguins. The weather continues to favour us with slightly above zero temperatures, very little wind and smooth water for easy zodiac transfers to land.

Day 9 – we woke up this morning in Port Lockroy, our first stop in a place currently inhabited by humans. Four Brits spend the summer here (4 months) running the Post Office, Museum and doing restoration work on the former British base that was abandoned in 1962. They seemed happy to have visitors which happens a few times a week. The souvenirs, postcards and stamps they sell help fund the work that they are undertaking. Over 80,000 postcards are mailed from here every year. Once added to the mailbox, they await a passing ship that is headed to the Falkland Islands in the near future, where they are then transferred to a British military plane for a ride back to England at which point they enter the public mail system for delivery around the world. It will be interesting to see how long our postcard takes to arrive. While at the port and across the bay to Jougla Point we saw more Gentoo penguins, blue-eyed shags, snowy sheathbills and whale bones left over at the former whaling station (1911 – 1931). Before leaving the island I managed to find a geocache, one of 20+ I have been searching for in Antarctica with every landing we make. After spotting some humpback whales during our lunch journey further north, we took a zodiac cruise around the Melchior Islands. There were many fur seals on land and small icebergs, Gentoo penguins swimming like dolphins, petrels flying overhead and some absolutely beautiful blue coloured icebergs floating along the way. Everyone was asked to wear black and white attire to dinner, and there was a penguin dress-up contest after. I represented our family as a chinstrap penguin. Later that evening in the Polar Bear Bar we listened to the Monkey Eating Eagles, a band consisting of the ship’s dining room staff. Our drinks were served with perfectly clear ice gathered from the seas. It takes over 1000 years of pressure to make the ice that clear.

Day 10 – due to our storm-assisted quick start to our trip we were advised last evening that the ship would continue northward bound through the night to give everyone an opportunity to experience the Weddell Sea on the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula. This area was not on our original route and was a special bonus for our final day of land trips. When we woke up we were in Antarctic Sound with huge tabular icebergs floating around us (tabulars are flat on top and can cover 30 sq. miles - ones over 10 sq. miles are tracked by satellites). They had broken off from the massive ice shelf further south in the Weddell Sea and the wind and current were moving them northward. Our first stop was at Brown Bluff, named after a sheer cliff face on the side of a small mountain. We hiked part way up for some amazing views, then returned to the shoreline where large groups of both gentoo and adelie penguins were preparing to leave their rookeries and head out to sea. Unfortunately for some of the younger ones, leopard seals were also awaiting their departure from land. To brighten everyone’s spirits, the long awaited polar plunge took place at the shoreline. Over 30 passengers (25%) made their way into the icy water where they had to submerge in water up to their necks to qualify for their certificate award. We passed on the opportunity in the 0C water (salt water freezes at -1.8C). After lunch the ship headed back north, with a stop at Gourdin Island in Hope Bay where we made our final shore excursion. This stop turned out to be the highlight of our trip. Not only did we see gentoo, adelie and chinstrap penguins aplenty along the shoreline and all the way up to the top of hills (27,000 on the small island) but we also got to experience some amazing scenes when we did a zodiac cruise. It started with a leopard seal grabbing a penguin and crushing it with its’ powerful jaws. Then it thrashed it back and forth in the water until it separated the skin from the meat and devoured the meal. A bit sad to see but all part of mother nature. Shortly after that we came across a pod of humpback whales, including 3 that came within 10 metres of our zodiac. At one point they were coming directly for us and split up going by us on both sides of our small rubber floatation device. It was a magical ending to our time in Antarctica.

Day 11-12 – we made our return trip across the Drake Passage on smoother water (4-5 metre swells) so it was a bit more comfortable trip this time.

Overall it was a fantastic trip with memories that will last a lifetime. Every day, was unknown as it is all weather dependent. The ship’s crew, staff and expedition guides were all knowledgeable and performed their roles well. And the wildlife, scenery and weather all worked in our favour. Every day seemed to be better than the previous one so our expectations were definitely exceeded. The expedition leader claimed it was the first time ever in reaching all of the points we reached during the 2,270 nautical miles that we covered. The magnitude of everything we experienced will take time to absorb but we will be smiling for the foreseeable future.

Our easiest zodiac landing - no wind or waves, shallow shore line.

A gentoo penguin feeding her chick.....which she does by regurgitating her previous meal.

A gentoo colony. Lots of molting going on, with plenty of icebergs in the background.

Every iceberg was unique and often more blue showing than our camera captured.

An adelie mom being chased by her chicks. They want food from her and she makes them work for it to build up their stamina. Lots of fun to watch.

A gentoo mom protecting her chick from the skuas and petrels. Their nests are made of small rocks because there are no trees / branches available.

A large leopard seal relaxing on an ice flow after a penguin meal. They are the only seal that the penguins need to avoid at all costs when in the water.

Two different humpback whales....one diving with it's fluke still visible and the other in front of our zodiac. They got even closer (less than 10 metres) shortly after this shot was taken.

Hiking up a slope for a lovely view.