The Mamma Mia Coastal Road (aka Amalfi Coast)

We are so glad that we changed our minds about driving a rental car along the coast. We knew the road would be next to a seaside cliff but the many twists and turns along a narrow two lane road would have been a harrowing experience and prevented us from appreciating the beautiful scenery. The several bus rides we took were exciting enough. On one of our bus trips we sat in the two front seats, across from the bus driver, which provided an amazing vista of our impending doom. It did not help that we noticed our bus driver making the sign of the cross more than a handful of times along the way. We weren't sure if he was praying that another vehicle would not be coming from around the bend, or whether he was thanking the Lord for making it past another church. Now that we have our feet safely back on the ground, I can say that it is something everyone should experience at least once.

We started off this week in Sorrento which was an ideal spot to stay and use as a base for day trips to nearby places. It was very easy to walk around with many pedestrian friendly alleyways with shops. They even had an elevator down to the marina if you were in a hurry or didn't want to use the multi-switchback walkway down or up the seaside cliffs. We did however strike out with a couple of recommended restaurants that closed for the season at the beginning of November......something we will have to be more diligent with.....but fortunately Sorrento has many fine places to eat (especially seafood) so we did not go hungry. The streets were busy every night with the tourists and locals both out to enjoy the ambience.

On one of our days we took the morning ferry to popular Capri and spent the day there. We started off by taking a local bus from the marina along a very narrow cliff side road to the hilltop town of Anacapri which sits above Capri. There were fewer tourists there and we really enjoyed the porcelain floor tiles of St. Michael's Church. We took the single occupant chairlift (interesting experience) to Monte Solaro which offered 360 degree views of the island. While Capri was nice we did fall into the tourist trap of paying $15 for a large beer and $5 for a half litre bottle of water....but the view was lovely! We also made a second trip back to Naples using the commuter train. We had missed out on the amazing National Museum of Archaeology when we were previously there on the only day of the week it was closed. Our second attempt was successful and a good choice. The museum houses the best relics from the Mount Vesuvius eruption of 79 A.D., including artifacts from the Greek inhabitants who were there before the Romans impolitely asked them to leave. It also houses the impressive marble statues from the Farnese family collection, all displayed in a former 16^th century palace.

We then moved on to Positano along the Amalfi Coast. It was another entertaining bus ride and well worth the 2 euro ticket. After checking into our lovely B&B we headed out for a Positano walkabout. The town consists of a single, skinny switchback road and an endless network of stairways squeezed between hillside homes. Positano, however, was not so 'positivo' for us. For a seaside town that is overpopulated in the summer, it seemed more like a ghost town to us. It might have been the rainy day, or afternoon shop closures, but more likely the November time frame since many shops and restaurants closed their doors for business on Oct. 31. Four restaurants had been recommended to us and we found all of them shut down for the season. Not many tourists on the hillside streets either. Our other planned adventure for Positano was to hike the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) the following day which runs along the mountains high up from the sea, offering amazing views of the Amalfi Coast. With rain in the forecast my hiking companion decided to seek shelter for the day......and perhaps I should have as well, but I always look forward to a new experience. Fortunately for me the rain held off but the rocky path was still a bit slippery from recent rains so caution was required. I started my hike from nearby Nocelle (two towns up the mountain from Positano and another exciting bus ride), which was the recommended 'finishing point' for the 8 km trek, since the hike is mostly uphill when heading west to east. I ended up making it only two-thirds of the way before turning around and heading back on a slightly different path (unintentional). Although the path was marked with the red dots I was looking for, it took quite a bit longer getting back. After 5 hours of strenuous hiking, and not coming across a single hiker all day, I was glad to be re-united with my partner who was starting to get a little stressed when I missed our meeting point time. All good in the end but I probably ventured further than I should have on my own. Maybe I will become wiser when I get old but until then I am like a kid in a candy store when a good hike presents itself.

This morning we left Positano and ventured further along the coast to Amalfi where we checked our backpacks for several hours and walked around the town. Much busier than Positano, it was a bit of relief to find people again. We found a nice spot for lunch and visited the impressive Cathedral and it's Crypt which contains relics from the apostle, St. Andrew. We then got back on a bus to bring us to Salerno where we will bunk down for 3 nights in a newly renovated B and B.

The Plaza Tasso in Sorrento where the crowds seemed to gather in the evenings.

Sorrento's Marina Grande where the fishermen brought in fresh seafood for our evening dinners.

Zucchini flowers which were filled with ricotta cheese and became a favourite appetizer.

Looking down on the Capri harbour area (Capri was up the hill on the right). Taken from the window of our bus on the way up to Anacapri.

St. Michael's porcelain floor depicting St. Michael chasing Adam & Eve out of the Garden of Eden after consuming the forbidden apple. The Anacapri church was built in 1719 and the floor is now preserved by having walking boards along the sides.

A view of the Faraglioni Rock stacks which are constantly being eroded by the waves. The water was very clear with lovely shades of aqua.

The massive Hercules marble statue (3.17 metres tall) in Naples impressive National Museum of Archaeology. The early 3rd century statue from the Farnese collection is actually a copy of the 'much older' 4th century b.c. Greek version.

Positano on the Amalfi Coast on a day with intermittent rain.

Looking back at Positano during my hike along the Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods). There were a lot of steps and steep paths but the views were remarkable.

Our first view of the west side of Amalfi from the pier close to the bus station.

Rhonda's first trip selfie looking back at Amalfi. Everyone else was doing it so she couldn't resist.