Getting Great Mileage on the Alaska Marine Highway

This post finds us in Juneau, Alaska, following a 2 night ferry ride from Prince Rupert along the Inside Passage, also known as the Alaska Marine Highway. With island protection on the west side, the waters were quite calm, making for a smooth ride all the way. Passengers are not allowed to sleep in their vehicles so we booked a berth (room) on the ship rather than opting for an airplane type seat recliner in the lounge area........and with the gentle rocking motion of the ship we both slept well. Our ferry made several stops at small villages along the way to satisfy the needs of other passengers, providing a 30 minute opportunity to set foot on land once again which I took advantage of, mostly for the exercise. While on the deck, or in the lounge areas, we saw humpback whales, dolphins, sea lions and a bald eagle.

Yesterday, after arriving in Juneau, we drove out to the massive Mendenhall Glacier (22 km's in length) where we did 3 short hikes, including one to Nugget Falls where the spring water was pounding down the cliff side into Mendenhall Lake which is growing larger each year due to the receding glacier. Today we went to the McCauley Salmon Hatchery where they are doing an excellent job of increasing the survival rate of the Salmon fry and then releasing them back into the sea water when they are a bit larger. The young salmon still use their astonishing memory to return to this spot for spawning several years later. It would be a special time to be here later in the summer when the salmon climb the man-made fish ladders at the hatchery to spawn. We also found time to enjoy Alaska King Crab at a popular restaurant down by the harbour. Juneau can only be accessed by boat or plane due to the rugged terrain surrounding the city, but it is filled with colourful homes that are well taken care of, reflecting the pride that it's citizens have for their 'island-like' home. It is also popular with the cruise ship industry as we spotted 4 new, incredibly large, ships in the harbour both days. Apparently this will continue for the rest of the cruise season (May - September), depositing 10,000 - 15,000 new visitors every day.......to the delight of the restaurants, tour groups and shop owners in the city. The temperatures have been a bit cooler (15C) with some light rain the past few days but still comfortable for outdoor touring.

Prior to boarding the ferry in Prince Rupert we spent several days in the lovely towns of Smithers and Terrace. They both reminded us of Canmore before it's growth spurt 20-25 years ago, surrounded by mountains and not filled with tourists. The drive from Prince George to Prince Rupert was spectacular, with the wide and fast flowing Skeena River right beside the highway, and mountains on both sides. It was hard to focus on our audio-book with scenic views one after the other. Some highlights along the way included the Moricetown Canyon, Twin Falls, Lakelse Lake Provincial Park and a visit to the North Pacific Cannery near Prince Rupert. Thirty to fifty canneries of this type operated on B.C.'s west coast from the mid-1800s to the early 1930's which were then shut down immediately by changes in government regulations lobbied for by a wealthy business (who then scooped up all the licences). Politicians could be bought then too!

Tomorrow we board another two day ferry that will take us further north to Whittier, Alaska (south of Anchorage)  where we will start to add some miles back on to our odometer.

Our weather had been so good on our way through B.C. that we had to find time for a round of golf and some exercise at the Smithers Golf Course. Hudson Bay Mountain in the background reflects the company's presence in the area many years ago when the fur trade business was flourishing.

The Moricetown Canyon, north of Smithers, where the Bulkley River was raging at the narrows. When it is spawning season for the salmon run, the local indigenous men strap themselves to the side of the canyon walls below and net the salmon as they try to navigate the rapids.

A giant Sitka Spruce that we encountered while walking around Giant Spruce Park in Kitimat, a highway diversion south of Terrace. We found a 500 year old Sitka Spruce in the same park, with a much larger base, but no longer 50 metres tall because it lost it's top section in a windstorm 10 years ago.

The Moore Creek Falls near Kitimat. It was a short walk in from the road where we parked. Across the road was the massive Rio Tinto operation housing one of the largest aluminum smelters in the world. The smelter was originally built by Alcan, Canada's largest aluminum producer, in the 1950's but later bought out by Australian giant Rio Tinto in 2007 (friendly takeover) who recently spent over $3 billion to modernize the smelter and make it more environmentally efficient.

The Northern Pacific Cannery near Prince Rupert where we had an excellent tour of the former cannery. It had English roots with the canned salmon products being sent back to Europe even before the Panama Canal was built, requiring a ship to go around the tip of South America. The return ships often delivered gold rush minors to California and British Columbia.

The Sunken Gardens in Prince George. The area will become even more beautiful this summer.

The Malaspina ferry ship that took us from Prince Rupert to Juneau with a handful of other stops along the way. 

Our berth (room) on the ferry which we had to ourselves for the 2 night trip. The sitting room at the back was a bonus that most of the berths do not have. Our berth on our next ferry will be smaller with only one bunk bed.......an upcoming card game will likely decide who gets the lower bunk.

Our first view of the Mendenhall Glacier as we approach Juneau. The 22 km long glacier has a wavy flow between various mountain valleys, so only a portion of it was ever within view.

A closer view of the Mendenhall Glacier from Photo Point within the National Park Mendenhall Lake in the foreground never existed until the glacier started receding hundreds of years ago.

Our NP walk along the Steep Creek Trail. The moss and lichen have taken over in the rain forest providing an eerie view when keeping an eye out for wildlife, including bears.

Glacier Gardens in Juneau. The gardens were developed unintentionally when the owner upended a tree when clearing land and plants started growing out of the tree roots which were above ground. He then started turning trees upside down and placing colourful plants in the root system. Juneau, being in a temperate rainforest, had many beautiful gardens and yardscapes.