Friday, November 12, 2021

A Dose of Vitamin D

Our Swiss daughter arrived safely in Malta and we found a quiet, relaxing seaside apartment to rent for the week in Marsaskala. With a private pool and patio facing the Mediterranean, it was indeed a respite listening to the waves crash against the rocky shoreline less than 100 metres away. We spent 3 lazy days in the large apartment, only venturing out for short walks, groceries, and a few meals. Our only distant outing was a bus trip for a short visit to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk where we walked alongside the harbour admiring the luzzu's, small colourfully painted rowboats, with the Eye of Osiris painted at the front of the bow for "protection" while out at sea. We also enjoyed a fresh seafood lunch of swordfish and sea bream.

Re-energized, the next day we took a Bolt taxi, similar to Uber, over to the west coast to check out the Blue Grotto. The large waterside arch was picturesque but the windy day precluded small boats taking us out on the water and inside the small caves to view the blue hues in the water. Undeterred, we walked 1.5 km's slightly uphill to visit the coastal megalithic temples of Hagar Qim and nearby Mnajdra. Built between 3000-3500 BC, using massive limestone slabs, including one weighing over 20 tonnes, one wondered how the temples were assembled using manual labour only. Carbon dating has determined that these temples were built prior to both Stonehenge and the Pyramids. From there we took a bus to Valletta so that we could provide our daughter with a quick tour of the busy city, followed by a small boat ride over to Birgu to enjoy dinner at one of our favourite seaside restaurants in Malta (Cargo).

On another day we took a taxi from the south end of the island to the north end (40 minutes) and then a short ferry to the pedestrian only island of Comino (3.5 sq. km's). The major attraction there is the Blue Lagoon where a small, shallow, sandy beach with Caribbean-like blue hues stretching out into a sheltered bay made for heavenly views. Those views continued on our walk around the island visiting other bays and steep cliffs on the opposite side where weather induced rock formations ruled. Our final Malta day trip was to the small town of Tarxien, home of some additional megalithic temples, a continued theme to help us feel much younger than our passport dictates. Tarxien was also home of the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, a complex underground cavern dating back to the 3000-3600 BC times. The Hypogeum was carved out by hand and used to hold the bodies of over 7000 humans. It was discovered only when a cistern was being dug in the early 1900's. Because of the fragility of the find, it is kept climate-controlled, no pictures are allowed and only 80 visitors are allowed every day. It was amazing to experience the creations from so long ago, made without the tools of today.

We are now back in Basel, Switzerland, nearing the end of our 2 month trip. One more Swiss overnight trip is planned before flying back home, which will be a nice farewell with our daughter and her partner. 

The patio area for our 8 night stay in Marsaskala. Our 'sea view' apartment didn't match the one on the website, which would have been taken from the apartment above us, but it was still relaxing to hear the waves crashing against the rocky shore below.

The harbour area in nearby Marsaxlokk. The colourful luzzu's were a drawing attraction in this small fishing town.

Our seaside lunch in Marsaxlokk. My freshly caught Sea Bream is in the forefront and my bride's swordfish on the opposite side. Our daughter's vegetarian dish didn't make the day's headline. The Mediterranean tide reaches one metre and by the end of our lunch the water was starting to roll in under our table.

Our day trip over to the Blue Grotto on the west side of the island. This shot was taken from the viewpoint at the top and a combination of the waves crashing and no rowboats with tourists in sight we realized our hopes of visiting the small caves were dashed. Some nearby megalithic temples still made the venture worthwhile.

A special point of interest inside the South Temple of Hagar Qim, uphill from the Blue Grotto.
Notice the small hole at the back wall, where at summer solstice the sun would shine directly through onto a shrine in the chamber.......amazing technology for the time.
One of the many pedestrian and restaurant friendly streets in Valletta. This particular one was adorned with lampshades overhead.

After enjoying a harbourside dinner in Birgu, we were able to enjoy the night lights in the area.

The beautiful blue hues and limestone cliffs visible when walking around Comino Island. Looking at the almost treeless and rock coated island.....Gozo is in the far background.....it was easy to understand why the full-time population currently stood at 2 people. Due to it's history and the beautiful Blue Lagoon several hundred tourists still visited the day we went and thousands a day in the summer.

The South Temple at the Tarxien finding. Like most of the other megalithic complexes, the remaining limestone slabs were covered overhead with a protective shield against nature's elements, allowing future generations to enjoy the discovery. All of the more fragile artifacts (statues, utensils, etc.) have been moved to museums for additional protection.

While strolling from the Tarxien Temples to the Hypogeum underground cavern we came across this street view of the Paola Parish Church. The Maltese balconies enhanced the sighting.


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